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Trailer wiring

Went to see my dealer parts dept. this week and asked about trailer wiring (I didn't have factory towing package on mine but installed Hidden-Hitch #90635 recently).

He searched on his computer and came back with part number YL8Z-13A576-AA for factory wiring assembly. Price was very reasonable - 7.29 CAN$ (~5 US$) so I purchased it.

Here is what it looks like:



Then, following Greyboy excellent instructions (Thanks Greyboy) at http://www.escape-central.com/1foru...g+interior+trim , I did remove side panel and located factory wiring:



Note that trailer wiring is the "white" connector on left. Remembering some older posts, I guess bigger square connector on right is for optional 12V power (not standard on mine).

I also had to remove the big rubber plug:



and finally inserted (from outside to inside) wiring harness and connected it to white connector.

I'm aware that there is currently no power supplied to flashers/brake wires but, being patient, I will end finding the "missing link". I guess there is a converter/relay to be installed somewere. I'll probably start by removing front left panel (the one around fuse box) to see where those wires end.

If I find something, I'll post here as soon as I'll get news. However, if someone is aware of a Ford part number for that possible converter, I'd really appreciate knowing it. Maybe also, brake/flasher power needs to be activated either "mechanically" or "programmatically". Who knows, aren't we in 2002 ??? FordTek, could it be possible ?

Thanks in advance !

By the way, I know I could have bought some aftermarket wiring kits (ex. Draw-Tite #18343) but, when I saw price for that Ford wiring assembly, I couldn't resist...

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Denis2002 True blue Escape XLS (FWD / 4 cyl.)

dsa:

$5.00 but... the Draw-Tite #18343 wiring kit is a bargain at $32.95 considering it's complete with converter and only requires removal of 4 taillight screws for installation.

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NOTE: On 07/30/02 traded Toreador Red 2001 Escape for Toreador Red 2002 Explorer XLS (Sport Group) 4X4 5spd AUTO. May 04, 2005 ...traded 02 Exploder for Sliver 2005 Mariner Premier.

Hitch pictures

Thanks DSA. Looking forward to hearing how the electrical comes along. Good pics.

Phil

UPDATE: Factory trailer wiring

Hi all.

This morning, went to dealer and told him about non-powered flasher/brakes wires on factory harness.

He then sent me to a guy's office in back of garage (service). When I explained him, he said...hum... I think I saw a service note about that... He then picked a big pile of paper and searched through it.

He came back with a paper (ref. # 2258) which was saying something like that (it was in french so here is a translation):

quote:

---

BROADCAST MESSAGES:
2258 Towing package: ... on some 2001-2002 Escape, trailer harness may not work properly ...Escape having factory installed towing package have YELLOW flasher module part # YL8Z-13350-BA while those NOT having factory installed towing package have BLUE flasher module part # YL8Z-13350-AA. If factory trailer harness is added to vehicle, flasher module must be replaced by "BA" model...

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Denis2002 True blue Escape XLS (FWD / 4 cyl.)

WAY TO GO DSA!!!!!

Like you I installed the trailer wiring myself and couldn't get the brake and siignal lights to work. Visits to the dealer and calls to Ford produced no results, other than frustration.


Let us know if the new flasher does the job. Where exactly did you find it under the dash?

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Regards, John

SOLVED: Escape factory trailer wiring

Suite and end of story (for me at least):

Went to dealer today to get YL8Z-13350-BA to find out it has been replaced by YL8Z-14N089-BA. However, new module is also yellow.

Went under dash, on left side, just above fuse panel, near hood release latch and removed blue unit, using a small flat screwdriver to free connector plastic tabs. Also had to use same tool to detach from "holder".

Here is what both modules look like, side by side:

They are quite similar, except color and weight ! Yellow one is definitely heavier than blue one.

Then, installed yellow module in its position:


Did some testing and all flasher/brake lights now work fine.

Bottomline, if you want factory trailer wiring, you'll need:

YL8Z-13A576-AA Factory wiring assembly
YL8Z-13350-BA (or YL8Z-14N089-BA) Flasher module "supporting" Factory wiring.

Overall, I must admit it costed quite the same as an aftermarket wiring kit. However, it's factory

Hope this will help others !

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Denis2002 True blue Escape XLS (FWD / 4 cyl.)

Kudos to you for solving this problem. I know many have posted on this list with the same problem.

Thanks again for the detective work, descriptions and pictures.

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Regards, John

Thanks, Denis

Great job on the follow-ups, part numbers, prices, tips, and pics. Now all I have to do is find the time to get one and install it.

Phil

You're welcome !

By the way, when I was testing after replacing flasher module, my wife was "operating" in Escape and I was at the back with a voltmeter. Next morning, on my way to office, at first corner, I immediately noticed that I now hear flasher when they operate while those were quite silent before. So, if someone needs a more "hearable" flasher sound, towing package flasher module is the solution...

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Denis2002 True blue Escape XLS (FWD / 4 cyl.)

I went by the dealer Wednesday and ordered the flasher module. No dealer in town had one and I was told the regional depots are out. List is USD 33.33

The parts guy told me the old number had actually been superceded by two numbers, one for the flasher and one for a bracket. Apparently the old part had an integrated bracket and the new one does not.

Also good to hear that the new flasher is louder. I can't hear the one old one at all.

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Regards, John

trailer wire

hi
did anyone get the wire that plugs into the socket under the bumper and connects to the trailer when you bought you escape/tribute with factory installed hitch?

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scott

As far as I know, that wire normally comes with the trailer.

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Denis2002 True blue Escape XLS (FWD / 4 cyl.)

It all depends on the type of trailer. We pull up to 11K pounds. Our smallest is a flat bed for ATVs. They range from a 6 pin plug to a 7 pin plug. some have even less. The larger plugs that have their pins sideways around the circle (inside the plug) are for trailer brakes. Now, on larger SUVs the towing package, or aftermarket ones, come with a plug and play type system. They plug into the aux fuse panel and allow you to have a trailer brake installed with the regular tow package wiring. The 6 pin is kinda the same as a 7 and both have trailer braking, just a different type. Smaller trailers can have a 6 pin as well but w/o brakes. Either way, you may have to purchase the extra kit to plug into the four plug off of your Escape. Very cheap though.

HTH
John

PS If you get a trailer make them include ALL necessary wiring and brake kits into the cost of the trailer, w/o raising the final price.

__________________
jcaimhigher@gawab.com
member Colorado Contour Enthusiasts Group (CEG)
contour.org
Defensor Fortis
The bond of the Blue Beret

Recently Purchased:

YL8Z-13A576-AA List Price $15.70 US
Description: Wiring Assembly


YL8Z-14N089-BA List Price $34.50 US
Description: Flasher Module


Excellent Post, I just noticed the price I paid differed from those listed in the post (I understand the prices listed are congruent with Canadian Dollars). Excellent Job, dsa!

thank you for the very hard to find info on the trailer wiring problem.I called a couple auto salvage places and found wrecked ford escape.So i go tomorrow to pick it up the flasher module.

P.s I own a Mazda Tribute and its the same issue.
Excellent job guys
newfie

Oil cooler PN?

Anyone have the part number for the oil cooler?

I'd like to add the 'package' (w/o the bumper and class II receiver).

My stealer gave my a price of $159 for the cooler but wouldn't give up the p/n.

thx

tbags

Hey TBags,

I just got that info yesterday.
The cooler is pn 6A642 based on CPD 2000 version 17.02 Nov 2004 price is $121.36
The necessary hoses is kit pn 6A810 price is $77.08

They can print the page off for you from the computer. THis cooler attaches to the radiator hoses, i.e. it uses the the engine coolant to cool your oil.

I'm gonna put one one mine pretty soon.

Regards,

04 LimiTed

Just added a hitch to my '03

Woohoo!

I haven't added the cooler, but, here's how I added a class III hitch.

The following two parts I got from http://www.etrailer.com (no affiliation, just a happy consumer):

75118 Draw-Tite Class III Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver $122.82
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/g...01/dt/75118.jpg

30445 Plug-N-Tow (TM) Vehicle Wiring Harness $13.54
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/g...1/hmc/30445.jpg

The harness plugs into the factory plug as above. Instead of having the large rubber plug, you cut an 'X' into the drain plug in the spare tire wheel well. The drain plug is fairly thin (about 1/16" thick).

Here are some tips for installing the hitch:
You need not remove the bumper fascia. The instructions for the draw-tite say to use bolt leaders. Well, I went a step further, as I figured taking the fascia off would add at least a 1/2 hour to the install.

Fish a leader from the frame holes toward the back of the frame and out. Then hook the bolt leader to the 'reverse' leader and draw the bolt and 'washer' into the frame.

I had just put up a hung ceiling in my basement, so I used the hanging wire as a bolt leader. Worked flawlessly.

When putting the leader on the bolt, just wrap the leader in the bolt threads about 1/4 the way up the bolt and the long end of the leader should wrap right off of the bolt. Ensure the wrapped part of the leader is flush with the threads or you'll have trouble fishing through the washer plates.

Etrailer.com quick tips:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq/installtips.asp

One website I read said 1 hour for hitch install, another said 2. With the wiring and the hitch it was 1.25 hours start to finish.

You'll need:
Leader wire
wire cutters
torque wrench and sockets.

Now all I need is the HD flasher (haven't tested the wiring w/o the HD flasher, but I don't have high hopes anyway).

Total of the parts with shipping was $156, w/o the HD flasher.

Quotes from 3 local dealerships for the YL8Z-13350-BA:
$54.76, 55.79, 50.40

www.fordpartsforless has it for 41.97 + S&H.

Hope this helps someone....

-tbags.

I need to hookup a trailer to my wifes tribute. She already has the hitch on there(factory) I assume that means she has the towing package? So what does that mean for wiring up a harness? Can I buy a universal one at the autostore that has 4 wires(ground, brake, right turn, left turn)?

__________________
01 Mazda Tribute V6
92 Mustang LX Supercharged SOLD 7/05

http://www.mikestoyz.com

If it already has a class II hitch, with the cutout bumper, you should already have the wiring harness. Take a look behind the hitch, it may be dangling back there.

If you still can't see it, open up the spare tire compartment. There should be wires running through a rubber stopper.

-tbags

__________________
http://users.adelphia.net/~tbsbjs/escape.wav

Found a decent price for the flasher...

A buddy of mine with an Exploder and Rustang pointed me to: http://www.1stfordparts.com

They have the flasher unit for $39 + shipping.

Much better price than I could get at the 6 local dealerships...

Just an FYI.

tbags

__________________
http://users.adelphia.net/~tbsbjs/escape.wav

Re: Just added a hitch to my '03

quote:

---

[i]

Fish a leader from the frame holes toward the back of the frame and out. Then hook the bolt leader to the 'reverse' leader and draw the bolt and 'washer' into the frame.

[/B]

---

Hmmm... what part of:

"You need not remove the bumper fascia. "
says that the bumper was removed???

And by your sig, for an '03, you don't need to cut anything for a drawtite round style hitch...

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http://users.adelphia.net/~tbsbjs/escape.wav

tbags >i clearly miss quoted.
but anyway ,to install the class3 drawtite round tube hitch you do indeed need to mod the muffler heat sheild. with out cutting the heat sheild you will never be able to mount the bolts to the frame cause the sheild blocks the mount holes. i guess being i used to work at ford i would not know what im talking about. even on the drawtite online site it clearly says that you must mod the heat sheild. eather way you dont got to be to smart to install this hitch being ford will rip you off it clearly make sense to do it urself!

http://search.cartserver.com/search...Escape&GO=GO%21

quote:

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Originally posted by escape03xls
tbags >i clearly miss quoted.
but anyway ,to install the class3 drawtite round tube hitch you do indeed need to mod the muffler heat sheild. with out cutting the heat sheild you will never be able to mount the bolts to the frame cause the sheild blocks the mount holes.
i guess being i used to work at ford i would not know what im talking about. even on the drawtite online site it clearly says that you must mod the heat sheild. eather way you dont got to be to smart to install this hitch being ford will rip you off it clearly make sense to do it urself!

http://search.cartserver.com/search...Escape&GO=GO%21

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http://users.adelphia.net/~tbsbjs/escape.wav

what does ":FootNote-Minor Heat Shield modification is required"
meen>.?go to your link and read

.

Full of it eh?
I don't have a pic handy at work, but I do have the instructions, as I figured All High & Mighty would question it....

DIRECT from the Installation Instructions, for Hitch No 75118:

1. REMOVE HEAT SHIELD ON 2002 AND EARLIER MODELS.
....
4. TRIM HEAT SHIELD AS SHOWN IN FIGURE 2.

Figure 2 shows the heat shield and the wording is as such:

FIGURE 2
(2002 AND EARLIER MODELS)


Note: All caps as that's how the instructions are written.

A pdf version of the instructions can be found at:
http://www.draw-tite.net/pdf/N75118.pdf

Best Regards,
tbags

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http://users.adelphia.net/~tbsbjs/escape.wav

i see your directions it clearly says in like 5 places that in the 02 and before years you need to take off heat shield .! anybody that can read and look at those directions can see that. all im saying with the 03escape xls xlt in order for you bolts to go in on the rightside above you muffler you need to remove and mod like the directions say or else you cant and wont be able to put the hitch on.. go over your directions. im not here to fight im here to give correct info on hitch .thats all

so maybe this meens i have a model 03 thats really is an latemodel 02.? ? my title says 03


wy would i need to mod my heat shield which i did.if the directions say not to for 03..?

escape03xls:

Take a look at the stickers on the driver's side door jamb. Look for the manuf. date.

I purchased my '03 in June of '03. If you bought your '03 at the year end change over (what is that, september of '02???) it may be that they continued to use the already fabricated heat shields from the 02 model year.

Regards,
TBags

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http://users.adelphia.net/~tbsbjs/escape.wav

I just received my factory trailer wiring harness & relay pack. Gives me something to do in the garage while it is SNOWING. What do I do with the business end of the harness? Is there a bracket that will mount near the hitch?

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2004 Red 3.0
American Racing AR-95 Estrella
Yokohama Geolander 235/70
Borla SS Exhaust
H&R Lift
KYB Struts & Shocks
SCT Programmer
Draw Tight Hitch
Custom Box Trailer
Alpine Tunes & Video
XM Radio
Hella 500 w/Custom Brackets

sf-621/yl8z-13350-ba

I didn't see one on the aftermarket hitch I installed.

And I also haven't really gone poking around someone else's factory equipped escape to see either.

I just got my new flasher:



The box is a motorcraft box, p/n SF-621

Install was a PITA, until I realized I could pop out the side of the dash and get in there with a 10mm socket and take the original flasher out. Once installed the factory wiring lit right up.

-tbags

__________________
http://users.adelphia.net/~tbsbjs/escape.wav

I have an 11/02 Escape and it's title shows it's a 2003. Early model 03
year. I did not have to mod any heat shields to install the hitch.

I did find it useful to use a "fishing line" that consisted of a coiled metal wire and 10" lead. The coil threaded in to the threads of the bolt and the lead you fished back to the hole thru the box sub frame. Then all you did was pull the lead thru the hold and the bolt just followed. A rather simple and effective solution. The place I bought my hitch also installs them. One of the techs there heard I was doing it myself and he offered it to me. Said they had a ton of them and it saved allot of time.

I used a HOPPY HARNESS - TRAILER WIRE for a 2003 FORD TRUCK ESCAPE 2WD # 40315 I believe. It taps in to both tail lights then has a lead that requires 12V. I was able to tuck everything behind the panels and it's totally hidden. For the 12V source I taped in to the black plug in the following pic. not sure what the black plug is used for but it has a constant 12V power source (key on key off) and it's fused already by the harness.




I towed a 2500 lbs Sentra that was packed to the gills with crap (so total weight is unknown) via a 2 wheel dolly 850 miles through the Smokey's, without any problems. I was quite Impressed with the escapes towing capacity. I did not install and oil cooler as time did not allow for the dealer to order it. I would have preferred to have one, but I don't tow much. My main concern was that the tranny had a cooler, which it has. And a descent one at that.


Anyway just a recap as to how my experience was and figured it might help someone out.,

Bigcitymike

Thanks

__________________


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I just got a quote yesterday from a local dealer and U-Haul. The quote includes everything (hitch, receiver ball mount, ball, wiring harness with converter, installation)

Prices are in Cdn$

U-Haul (Class III round bar - whoever makes UHaul hitches)
$320+tx ($287US)
* U-Haul guarantees their hitch for life against defects and corrosion for $5

Local Dealer (Class III Reese hitch)
$289+tx ($259US)

On the quote, U-Haul has the wiring harness with converter for $21. The local dealer quote was for $40. Either of those are WAY cheaper than the prices on the Hoppy and others I've looked at online that weren't under $70.

If I decide to get a hitch put on, I'll pay to get it all taken care of. The labor charges at U-Haul were $20/hr for 2 hours.

The only thing I'm debating is whether or not to get the receiver ball mount and ball through U-Haul. The wanted $34 for the ball mount and $14 for the ball. I think our local discount auto store (Princess Auto) would have those cheaper.

__________________
2001 Escape XLT 3.0L 4x4 w/Leather
Ford Vent Visors, Hood Deflector and Splash Guards
Nustart Remote Starter
BF Goodrich Long Trail T/A's

I just confirmed at Princess Auto:

Ball Mount (on sale for 52% off) - $12.88 (regular $26.99)
Ball Mount Kit (includes ball mount, ball, pin and clip) - $22.99

So I'll definitely just get the hitch put on when I decide to. I'll get the rest myself.

__________________
2001 Escape XLT 3.0L 4x4 w/Leather
Ford Vent Visors, Hood Deflector and Splash Guards
Nustart Remote Starter
BF Goodrich Long Trail T/A's

Picked up an '07 Escape last month. As part of the deal the dealership was supposed to install a hitch. They put on an aftermarket hitch and told me that the wiring harness was on order and they would install it when it came in. They hooked up the harness last week and yesterday I connected it to my trailer and .................nothing. I put a meter on the connector and there is no power. "AHA!" says I, remembering this post about needing a special flasher. I called the dealer and explained the situation. He gave me the usual "make an appt". I didn't want to waste a day only to find that they didn't have the flasher in stock, so I mentioned that I "had read somewhere" that I needed a flasher upgrade in order for the stock tow wiring to work. The person to whom I was speaking patronizingly told me that even with the standard flasher, I would have "some" power at the connector and if I was getting nothing it would need to be looked at by a tech. Now I didn't want to get into it with this guy so I agreed to just drop it off.

Question - for you folks that wired up the stock Ford harness before changing flasher, did you get any power at all to the trailer connector?

Thanx.

Kirk

Heatheroo, the flasher change is only for the 2001-2004 models. The 2005-2007 model years require a converter module. Unfortunately, it's not a simple plug in.

Ok. Thanks for the info. It goes back to the dealer tomorrow. Now...........wouldn't you think they'd try the harness after installing it?

On the plus side, by coincidence, the sales mgr. for this dealership lives about 5 houses up the street. So he drives it in when it needs to be looked at. If he wants to get home at night, it's in his best interest to see that the car is finished (g).

so I left the car withthe dealer for the day, get home and there's a message that " it needs a converter relay and they had to order it, so it won't be done until tomorrow". Grrrrr. I knew that would happen! Anyway............

Got the car back and the wife calls me last night and says there is a wire with a connector on the end dangling under the rear driver side. I figured the dopes forgot to connect the harness back up but when i got home and checked, the trailer harness disappears through a hole in the floor and the dangling wire is something completely different. It comes down from between the frame and the bumper and has a small circular connector on the end with 4 male contacts in it. Anybody have any idea what the heck it is? I'm going to have the dealer take care of it either way, but it helps to be armed with a bit of knowledge before I call them......................again.

Thanx.

quote:

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Originally posted by heatheroo
so I left the car withthe dealer for the day, get home and there's a message that " it needs a converter relay and they had to order it, so it won't be done until tomorrow". Grrrrr. I knew that would happen! Anyway............

Got the car back and the wife calls me last night and says there is a wire with a connector on the end dangling under the rear driver side. I figured the dopes forgot to connect the harness back up but when i got home and checked, the trailer harness disappears through a hole in the floor and the dangling wire is something completely different. It comes down from between the frame and the bumper and has a small circular connector on the end with 4 male contacts in it. Anybody have any idea what the heck it is? I'm going to have the dealer take care of it either way, but it helps to be armed with a bit of knowledge before I call them......................again.

Thanx.

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