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> Tech Tips and Tricks > Step-by-step. Removing the intake (2001 v6)
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lvon5401
3rd Gear

Registered: May 2008
Location: S.E. Michigan
Posts: 317

Step-by-step. Removing the intake (2001 v6) UPDATED

90% of the DIY stuff on an engine requires removal of the upper intake manifold. This weekend, I removed the upper and lower intakes and replaced all of the intake gaskets.

I have tried to document all the steps I took during my repair, but PLEASE, if you have suggestions, tips, or know of any easier way to perform a step, let me know. I am always looking for cheaper and easier ways to keep my Escapes on the road.

What you will need:
First decide what your task for the day is. For instance, if you are only replacing the spark plugs or a coil pack, you only need to remove the upper intake manifold.

You will need:
a) Plenum gasket set (upper only) $6.03
Rockauto.com part #MS961241 is the UPPER set only.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...8&parttype=5424



b) EGR gasket
Rockauto.com part #70149 $1.38
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...8&parttype=4972


If you need to replace both upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, you will need a different intake manifold gasket set. That set has almost the exact same part number as the plenum gasket only set listed above so be careful when ordering.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...8&parttype=5424


Before tearing into the engine, make sure you have the gaskets and the following parts onhand:
ANTI-SEIZE Compound for the bolt threads
Blue (sensor save) RTV Sealant

-and finally-
One super secret, Ninja rubber gasket removal tool©®


1) With coffee in hand, open the hood and say a short prayer to the gods of torque.


2) Using an 8mm socket, remove the three nuts holding the engine cover and remove the engine cover


3) Loosen the hose clamps and remove the air intake hose.


4) Loosen and remove the cruise control and accelerator cables. The accelerator cable is loosened at the clamp by twisting, the cruise control cable has clips that need to be compressed and the holder pushed back through.


5) At the throttle body, remove the two cables. The accelerator cable wraps around the butterfly linkage and the cruise control cable snaps on sideways.


6) Using a 10mm socket, remove the two bolts holding the EGR valve, remove the vaccum hose then seperate the EGR valve from the upper intake. Discard the metal/paper EGR valve gasket. The EGR valve is only detached from the manifold. It should still be connected to the crankcase vent tube. Just leave the EGR valve hanging in space.

WHEN RE-ASSEMBLING THE UPPER INTAKE, scrape clean the mating surfaces of the EGF valve and the upper intake. Replace the paper/metal gasket with the new one you purchased. Also apply a very thin bead of the gasket sealant to both sides of the new gasket. NOT TOO MUCH sealant. You do not want to block the ports on the EGR valves.


7) Remove the electrical connecter and vaccume hoses from the EGR vacuum solinoid.


8) Detatch the three vacuum hoses from the rear of the intake.


9) Using an 8mm socket and extension, loosten the bolts holding the upper intake manifold in the order pictured below. The bolds are held in place so cannot be fully removed. Leave them in but make sure they are loose.


10) At the evaporator, remove the hose running from the upper intake.


11) In this photo, you are better able to see the clips that hold the hose. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to release the clips from the flange on the evaporator.


12) You should now be able to lift the upper intake up and towards the front of the car and remove it.


13) Once the intake is removed, the lower intakes and fuel rail are visible.


14) For ease of repair, I lay the upper intake on the ground. From this picture you can see the rubber gaskets that will need to be replaced.


...continued next post....

Last edited by lvon5401 on 07-09-2008 at 03:12 AM

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lvon5401 is offline Old Post 07-06-2008 09:34 PM
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lvon5401
3rd Gear

Registered: May 2008
Location: S.E. Michigan
Posts: 317

Continued

15) IF YOU ARE RECEIVING A CEL 0401 "EGR Flow Insufficient", follow these next steps carefully. IF YOU ARE NOT RECEIVING A CODE, skip to step 19.
BEFORE REMOVING THE THROTTLE BODY, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A REPLACEMENT THROTTLE BODY GASKET.

If you purchased the upper and lower gasket kit shown above, the gasket is included. If you just purchased the upper intake gaskets, the throttle body gasket is a seperate part number.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...8&parttype=6474

Using a 10 mm socket or wrench, remove the bolts holding the throttle body.


16) Look inside the throttle body at the bypass chamber. It is the 1/2 moon shaped port. Make sure it is free of debris and carbon. If not, clean it with spray throttle body cleaner.


17) Check the rest of the throttle body and clean as necessary with spray throttle body cleaner. DO NOT scratch the inside of the throttle body.


18) This view shows the replacement gasket installed. Re-attach the throttle body after throughly cleaning the upper intake with throttle body cleaner and paper towels.


19) Using the Super Secret, Ninja rubber gasket removal tool©®, (a device that looks eeriely similar to a common paper clip, unbent and with a 1/8" hook bent into one side). remove the gaskets and replace them with new gaskets from the kit ordered above.


If you are ONLY changing the spark plugs, stop here. Once the plugs are changed, the installation is the same procedure in reverse.
****IMPORTANT****
USE A TORQUE WRENCH WHEN RE-INSTALLING THE UPPER AND LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS.
All intake bolts are to be torqued to 89in/lbs.
If your torque wrench cannot do in/lbs, that is about 7.5 ft/lbs. (Or 89 divided by 12 because there is 12 inches in a foot).


If you are also replacing the lower intake manifold gaskets, proceed with these steps.

20) At this point, the lower intake manifolds and fuel rail is totally visible. To remove the lower intake manifolds, the fuel rail must first be removed. I STRONGLY SUGGEST STUFFING PAPER TOWELS INTO THE OPEN INTAKE MANIFOLD PORTS TO STOP ANYTHING FROM DROPPING INTO THE ENGINE. CAREFULLY disconnect the electrical plugs from each of the 6 fuel injectors. These plugs are brittle and can break easily. (Trust me on this one).


21) Using an 8mm socket, remove the 6 bolts holding the fuel rail. The left-most bolt is hidden below the electrical harness. You must move the harness out of the way in order to loosen that bolt.


22) Once the 6 bolts are removed, pull up on the fuel rail to disconnect it from the fuel injectors. Once the fuel rail is loose, set it aside. Remove the fuel injectors by pulling on them. Discard ALL the old O-rings on the fuel injectors and replace them. NOTE: I have heard you can remove the two lower intakes AND the fuel rail as one piece. I have not tried it this way, but it sounds possible. Here is a link to that thread. http://www.escape-central.com/1foru...14&pagenumber=2
Remove the bolts holding the lower intakes. Once all bolts are removed, a solid pull on the intakes will remove them.


23) This photo shows ALL of the replacement gaskets in place and the pile of "dead" gaskets to the left of the shiny new parts.


24) Before re-assembly, replace both the o-rings on each fuel injectors. Look at the spray end of the fuel injectors. They may need to be sprayed clean with the Throttle Body Cleaner.


25) Re-install the lower intake manifolds using the bolts you removed earlier. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR, coat each bolt with anti-sieze compound to make them easy to remove the next time you need to do replace gaskets. SEE PHOTO 26. The lower intake bolts are also torqued to 85 oz/in (7.5 ft/lbs).


26) Coating of anti-sieze compound applied to the lower intake bolts.


27) Re-install the fuel injectors. They are keyed and need to be pushed down into the lower intakes until they seat properly. It may take a little force to get the injectors back in with the new o-rings installed. Once all the injectors are properly inserted, re-install the fuel rail. Be careful to connect the fuel rail properly to each fuel injector. Replace the fuel rail bolts you removed earlier.


28) Once the lower intakes are back in place and the fuel rail is re-installed, the upper intake manifold is re-installed by going back to step 13 and following the procedure in reverse.

Last edited by lvon5401 on 07-09-2008 at 03:23 AM

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lvon5401 is offline Old Post 07-06-2008 09:44 PM
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TheFixer253
2nd Gear

Registered: Feb 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 246

Absolutely one of the best photo tutorials I've seen on this forum. I'll be changing out the spark plugs on my '05 for the first time this spring and I'm printing out your article on a color printer so I can refer to it as I go along.

Muchas gracias for taking the time to put together all these photos and instructions. Oh, and how much do you charge for a super secret Ninja gasket remover?


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2007 Escape Limited, Dune Pearl

Last edited by TheFixer253 on 02-21-2009 at 11:32 PM

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Big Jim
Platinum Overdrive

Registered: Jul 2003
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 2261

Thank you.


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03 Escape Limited
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Big Jim is offline Old Post 02-21-2009 08:39 PM
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tryintoescape
Platinum Member

Registered: Oct 2007
Location: Unionville, CT
Posts: 758

An excellent write up, thank you very much, i did the front 3 plus a month ago but was hesitant to do the back three because of the intake, i now have a much clearer idea of what to do.

On a side note, maybe this site should have a how to, or photo tutorial section, this one would be an excellent beginning.


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4x2
Platinum Member

Registered: Aug 2002
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 937

Ivon,

Fantastic write-up! A big thanks from another SE MI resident.


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GreyDog-OMO
1st Gear

Registered: Oct 2001
Location: Ohio
Posts: 171

SOME ONE SHOULD PUT A PIN IN THIS ONE AND SAVE IT ON TOP

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EscapingBob
3rd Gear

Registered: Jan 2008
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 358

quote:
Originally posted by GreyDog-OMO
SOME ONE SHOULD PUT A PIN IN THIS ONE AND SAVE IT ON TOP


Or we should all respond to this so we can find this easier on an individual level!

I agree - Excellent Job! I've bought the parts for this and intend on completing this in the next month or two.


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Westin Bull Bar, Aux Fog Lights, Yakima Load Warrior Basket (lowered closer to roof) with Custom Antenna Mounts, Window Vents, Bugflector, Custom Lower Grill, Cabin Air Filter, Class III Hitch, Pioneer DEH-P5000UB with iPod/USB connection and JVC MP3 CD Changer, ICOM IC-208H (2M/440 Ant on Rack), Cobra CB (Whip & Spring on Rack)

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escape03xls
3rd Gear

Registered: Nov 2004
Location:
Posts: 322

Thumbs up

Checker auto parts..
$8> part #MS961241 is the UPPER intake gasket set / 2001-2003
$28> for NGK plats and the upper gaskets

Last edited by escape03xls on 03-26-2009 at 01:58 AM

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aspitaletto
Platinum Member

Registered: Jun 2003
Location: cape may NJ
Posts: 1834

posts like this are great tools. i hope more people make posts like this one.

bravo !


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escape03xls
3rd Gear

Registered: Nov 2004
Location:
Posts: 322

quote:
Originally posted by escape03xls
Checker auto parts..
$8> part #MS961241 is the UPPER intake set
$28> for NGK plats and the upper gaskets



the install of the plugs and new upper intake gaskets both got installed later that night in 40mins flat..just me and a 12pack she puuuuurrrrzzz a tad better now ...wifey likes that it finaly got done after a year of puttin it off now if she would just learn to check the oil and wash the darn thing

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EscapingBob
3rd Gear

Registered: Jan 2008
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 358

lvon5401 - Thank you again for this excellent how-to guide. -Made my life easier!

So I replaced my plugs, IAC, IAC gasket, upper intake gaskets, EGR gasket, TB gasket and cleaned the TB thoroughly. Long job and it does seem to run a bit better now.

My problem: I was hoping this job (and also replacing the IAC) would cure my high idle. It didn't.

On the throttle body, there is an adjustment screw to control how far the butterfly valve closes. (see the second picture in Ivon's second / "continued" post) Could I adjust this screw to allow the valve to close more? Just a little bit? I'm thinking, too much air is allowed into the system and that may be causing the high idle while stopped at a light.

Any thoughts? Should I or should I not touch this adjustment screw?

Thanks!!


__________________
'03 Escape XLT 2WD
Westin Bull Bar, Aux Fog Lights, Yakima Load Warrior Basket (lowered closer to roof) with Custom Antenna Mounts, Window Vents, Bugflector, Custom Lower Grill, Cabin Air Filter, Class III Hitch, Pioneer DEH-P5000UB with iPod/USB connection and JVC MP3 CD Changer, ICOM IC-208H (2M/440 Ant on Rack), Cobra CB (Whip & Spring on Rack)

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EscapingBob is offline Old Post 03-28-2009 09:00 AM
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lvon5401
3rd Gear

Registered: May 2008
Location: S.E. Michigan
Posts: 317

This is another thread.

quote:
Originally posted by EscapingBob
lvon5401 - Thank you again for this excellent how-to guide. -Made my life easier!

So I replaced my plugs, IAC, IAC gasket, upper intake gaskets, EGR gasket, TB gasket and cleaned the TB thoroughly. Long job and it does seem to run a bit better now.

My problem: I was hoping this job (and also replacing the IAC) would cure my high idle. It didn't.

On the throttle body, there is an adjustment screw to control how far the butterfly valve closes. (see the second picture in Ivon's second / "continued" post) Could I adjust this screw to allow the valve to close more? Just a little bit? I'm thinking, too much air is allowed into the system and that may be causing the high idle while stopped at a light.

Any thoughts? Should I or should I not touch this adjustment screw?

Thanks!!



EscapingBob, I created another thread since this question could turn out to be a long conversation.
And by the way, thanks to everyone for their kind words regarding this thread.
http://www.escape-central.com/1foru...&threadid=33777

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barrythedude
4th Gear

Registered: Feb 2006
Location: Regina Saskatchewan
Posts: 432

Either something is leaking vacuum or the screw has been adjusted improperly - note that the computer is supposed to control idle. The screw, if turned too much can screw up the computer inputs. I would spray with WD40 around the upper EGR and brake/intake area to see if idle changes (if you are sure the IAC is good) - if idle changes, leak found.

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